Asterick to Costa Rica: in Golfito (such a cute port town!), Paul was told (or what he believes he was told, the language barrier is real) that we were fine to depart Costa Rica as long as we submitted our exit paperwork for customs before we left Costa Rican waters. He did submit it, around 10p.m., an hour after pulling out of the marina. He called in the morning and was told to call back, and again, and again… finally, 4 hours into Panama, was instructed to make a U turn. He had misunderstood- our boat could not leave Costa Rican waters until the paperwork was received, reviewed and we were granted permission. We had to turn back and drive 4 hours back to Costa Rica (night shift for nothing!) They tracked us on Automatic Identification System (AIS) and Paul had to turn on location sharing on his phone while he was on the phone with the officials once we were back in Costa Rican waters. A half-hour later, we were given the go ahead, and we turned back around towards Panama, missing the best weather window and having to navigate through nasty chop. Good grief. At least we know we won’t be lost at sea; we have been closely monitored each step of the way!
We pulled into Panama City around 5p.m. and while testing the thrusters, realized we lost our bow thruster. No fun, especially in winds that could knock over a small human. Paul is an amazing captain and safely backed his way into the first slip he thought was doable. The next morning, Paul took a taxi to go to the port captain’s office. Unfortunately, the port captain was out and the next port captain was an hour away. Our taxi driver called his friend, who came out of his local office to complete our paperwork on the hood of the taxi! It’s all who you know!
Panama City has exceeded my expectations, which is ironic because I didn’t know what to expect. It is a clean and safe city bustling with activity and the comforts we are used to in the U.S. (except Cheese-its!) Other ports have left me desperate for Amazon and a full grocery store with more than the mass produced white Bimbo bread. While walking miles in Allbrook mall, with 800 stores and a bowling alley, I had to remind myself that I cannot compare a capital city of a country, largely formed from U.S. influence and defended, if necessary, by U.S. military, to the small port towns that we normally cruise to. Not quite apples to apples.
We have added (happily but temporarily) to our family. Two fantastic girls, Bella and Luna, that we met and connected with in La Cruz, flew into Panama and will join us as we head to Galapagos. Hannah and Kathryn have best friends with them, and they are great with Claire and Andrew. As they have been cruising for 11 years with their parents on SV Bellaluna and have spent many months in Panama (even getting the chance to jump on the bed of the former Panamanian President), they are a great source of knowledge for us too.
The highlight of our first week in Panama was a visit to the Embera Village. We arrived to the Chagres riverbank and were greeted by heavily tattooed tribesman sporting colorful beaded wraps. They took us up river by canoe and we hiked the rest of the way to a beautiful waterfall.
After a refreshing swim, we loaded back into the canoes, which took us to the village. The Embera are one of 7 tribes in Panama and this village was composed of of 25 families, 108 individuals. Panama made their land a national preservation, prohibiting them from farming or hunting. Thus, they turned to tourism, performing for up to hundreds of tourists 7 days a week. They performed traditional dances for us and then invited us to join them for a samba, before placing flower crowns on the women.
We then moved to a different hut, where we were served delicious fried Tilapia and plantains in a palm leaf adorned with a flower before indulging in fresh, juicy fruit for dessert.
They do not have electricity; therefore, the food was super fresh, likely caught that morning and cooked over plantain leaves. After lunch and an interesting and informative talk about their culture and traditions, we had the opportunity to get temporary (still here after 3 showers and scrubbing!) traditional tattoos. The tattoos are important to their culture and honors their tribe in design, as well as to provide sunblock and repel mosquitoes.
We had a short time to shop their beautifully handcrafted weavings and wood carvings before loading back into the canoes to return home. Our guide gave us fascinating information on the history of Panama and the canal and I have enjoyed my daily jogs up the causeway to the Bridge of America’s, the Pacific entrance to the canal. I look forward to doing a full canal tour when I return from my trip to Patagonia with friends (yes!). I am a bit sad we aren’t traversing the canal yet, but we will someday!
How long will we be in Panama before our possibly 1st big venture into the Pacific on route to the Galapagos? Aka, how long until we fix our boat issues du jour? While in DC for work, Paul tirelessly called around to locate parts for the thruster, which was an arduous task given that our boat is a one-off, unsuccessful attempt at creating a diesel-electric hybrid Nordhavn. Paul finally located the parts but now has to figure out the logistics of how and when we can get them. We are also flying in a mechanic to work on our known issues: replacing the bilge pumps (thanks to Hannah and Bella for pumping out several buckets full of water and oil residue in the bilge!), fixing the hydraulic alternator (again), major service on the engine & large generators, maybe getting some flopper stopper arms, replacing the failed FLIR camera, installing fuel gauges for the hidden tanks…. the list is neverending!
We are also putting a film on the windows that will help prevent the sun’s heat from assaulting us (and reduce our need to run the air conditioner). And so, can we get out on time? Fingers crossed!